Characteristics of cotton, linen, silk, wool and other fabric fibers and the characteristics of fabric structure
Characteristics of fabric fibers:
Cotton: Cotton fiber is a natural cellulose fiber, soft, with good hygroscopicity and warmth retention. It can be spun into finer yarns without discomfort to the skin. It is mainly used for knitted fabrics and other clothing, and is widely used in underwear, cotton Fiber has high heat resistance and good recovery after pressing. It is relatively stable during bonding, but the shrinkage problem is the focus of the lining, and the consistency of the shrinkage rate between the cotton and the lining should be maintained.
Hemp: Hemp fiber is a kind of bast fiber, there are many kinds. There are mainly flax, apocynum, etc. Hemp fiber products have the advantages of smoothness, stiffness, fast moisture absorption and dehumidification, coolness, antibacterial hygiene, etc. Hemp fiber is not easy to obtain adhesive strength, and reasonable pressing conditions must be determined to obtain good quality. bond strength.
Silk: Natural silk fiber is a natural protein fiber. It has the advantages of good strength and elongation, delicate and soft, smooth and elastic, good gloss and good hygroscopicity. The fabric is thin, light and soft, soft luster, plump to the touch, moisture-absorbing, breathable, elastic, elegant and gorgeous, and comfortable to wear. Silk fiber is a heat-sensitive fiber, and the surface is pressurized and heated to cause aurora. Avoid using high temperature and high pressure and choose low temperature adhesive lining.
Hair: wool fibers include sheep wool, rabbit hair, cashmere, camel hair and yak hair. Sheep wool has the characteristics of good elasticity, strong hygroscopicity, good warmth retention, not easy to stain, and soft luster. The wool fiber has a significant relationship with humidity (moisture content). The size increases after moisture absorption, and vice versa. Pay attention to the synchronous change of the interlining and the fabric size and the moisture content of the fabric wool fibers before bonding.
Synthetic fiber: After high temperature setting treatment to ensure dimensional stability. The temperature of the bonding press must be lower than the heat setting temperature so as not to destroy the setting effect.
Xinhe is thin and soft, and has good crease recovery. The lining is required to be soft, stiff and not easy to shrink, anti-curling, and strong adhesion.
The properties of composite fibers are more complex. The interlining is required to have good followability, stretchability, seamability, softness, drape and comfort.
Fabric weave characteristics:
1. Elastic fabrics: such as elastic knitted fabrics, four-way elasticity is its characteristic. The matching should pay attention to the same elasticity and stretchability as the fabric to ensure no deformation.
2. Thin and transparent fabrics: thin and transparent fabrics. Soft to the touch, easy to see through and leak. Therefore, color matching is the primary external requirement for choosing interlining. At the same time, choose a coating hot melt adhesive that is not easy to penetrate. Furthermore, the feel of the interlining is also a problem that cannot be ignored (does not destroy the softness of the fabric)
3. Smooth fabrics: smooth surface fabrics such as silk, etc., are difficult to bond. It is advisable to choose an interlining with fine (high) mesh coating adhesive.
4. Special style fabrics. For fabrics with special surface styles such as seersucker, crepe, fluff, etc., in order not to destroy the style due to bonding and pressing, it is advisable to choose low-pressure bonding conditions. For fabrics whose surface is finished with silicone oil or resin, it is advisable to select high-pressure bonding conditions to overcome the difficulty of bonding.